We have just had our metal roof replaced with supposed quality standing seam. We went to great pains to find a roofing company with a good history, high ratings, etc. We also paid a premium, well above what insurance covered. Within a week we had hvac issues from water dripping from between the gutters and the roof (drip/freezing/ice build up). Now also have a soil berm washing away in another area where the drop is 30′, same issue. Why would this happen if the drip edge was properly installed? There were never any gutter issues prior to this. We have been told that different companies make differing drip edge and sometimes they don’t extend far enough into the gutter. At what stage does the roofer become aware of this and that the drip edge is insufficient?
Janet,
Standing seam standard drip edge lip is 1.25" … Shingles is 1" … so it’s not the drip-edge itself … Gutters need to be tucked under drip edge lip, so that water doesn’t flow behind gutters.
I’m not going to engage in "who’s responsible" … that’s for you to decide. But I do think it’s roofer’s responsibility now to fix this.
In my opinion, best, simplest and cheapest solution at this point, is to fabricate a flashing that will go under roof drip edge and over gutter. It’s should be 1" to 1/2" to 3/4" cleat with 90-135 degree beds at each step. 1" part goes under drip edge, 1/2" pushes it forward, and 3/4" goes into gutter. Preferably if they can make it color matching.
This cleat/flashing should be sealed from behind… just at the joint of gutter and fascia board.
For this, roof drip edge will have to be manually bent forward… otherwise you won’t be able to slide it in place. I would not be removing gutters to slide the flashing in first, because gutted need to be slanted for proper drainage …
Once flashing is inserted, push drip edge lip back, and fasten with color matching, rubber washer hex screws, through drip edge lip.
That’s what I would do.
Best of luck
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